So today we are to dive on Giants Castle, a dive ranging from 26 to 40 metres. The day started with a walk along the beach from Baboozi to the dive centre, normally a nice walk, but not today. The locals had been hard at play on New Years day, drinking and partying on the beach. Sadly education of pollution and the message to take home your litter has not been heard by the local people and the beach resembled a rubbish dump of beer bottles, plastic bags, nappies, condoms and other waste. This is when I cannot understand people and their lack of regard for the environment in which they live. I am sure the same outcome can be found in the western world after a celebration and festivity, but here nobody clears the mess up or gives a damn, as such the beach becomes a hazard as bottles smash and glass hides in the sand. Even worse is that the tide comes in and sweeps the plastic and rubbish out to sea. How lovely to dive and have a nappy float past you…….there is no excuse for such destruction and ignorance. Africa has a big lesson to learn on protecting its environments from its own people. Strange for a continent which has given over major parts of its land and coastline to the protection of nature and game reserves.  Let’s hope the same policing and control that are exercised in the game parks can be enforced upon the marine and coastal reserves too.

After hip hopping our way along the beach we kitted up at Tofo diving and headed back to the beach for our boat ride out to the dive site. The swell was up today and the trip out had us flying through the air and diving into the waves. Quite a nerve racking experience when you know you are heading out in such conditions to your deepest dive yet. I can say that before our negative entry I was very nervous, but as we hit the water and I found the lineman all apprehension subsided and we dived fast for the bottom. No problems with visibility or losing Kat and Tony today. Tony was the lineman and as this was a drift dive we stayed pretty tight as a group. The current wasn’t too strong which was good in someway as it made getting down as a group easier and keeping together more comfortable. We dived to 36 metres and picked up the current that had us cruising along the reef wall. This was an amazing dive and for me the highlight of diving to date. We saw so much along the way, by the time we surfaced I was ecstatic and couldn’t stop laughing and saying “awesome!!”

After our dive we said our goodbyes to all at Tofo diving and made our way back to Baboozi, we are heading back south today toward Praia do Belini and over the next few days shall tour back down to St Lucia to check it out as a potential tour location for when Kat’s folks come out on the 9^th January. Praia do Belini is a OK place but again was over populated with South Africans on holiday so we didn’t get to see the real place at its normal pace. Nevertheless we had a nice time here and found a good campsite with a good location outside town on the lagoon, where we enjoyed a night of star gazing.

Tagebuch

Am 2.01. hatten wir unseren letzten Tauchgang bevor wir wieder nach Sued Afrika fahren um Mami und Papi am 9.01. in Johannesburg abzuholen. Dies war unser Drift dive und die See war ziemlich kabbelig und mir wurde schlecht im Boot. Das Tauchen war super und nachdem wir wieder im Tauchcentre waren und uns verabschiedet haben, sind wir dann los gefahren. In Inhambane wollten wir zum Markt und uns die Stadt angucken, aber es war Sonntag und alles zu. Somit ging’s weiter Richtung Sueden und wir sind um 19:00 Uhr in Praia do Beline bei einer Lagune angekommen. Dies war ein richtiges touristisches Resort mit Sued Afrikanern die alle auf ihren Quads durch das Dorf heizen… Wir haben in einem kleinen einheimischen Restaurant, weg von dem Geschehen, leckeres Essen gegessen und sind dann auf den Campingplatz gefahren und haben uns an die Lagune gesetzt, wo ich mit Mami und Papi telefoniert habe und wir Sterne geguckt haben.

 

Where are we: Ponto do Oura, Mozambique

Date: 3rd January 2005

End GPS: S26 50.643 E32 53.347

Total Kilometres: 40828 km

Weather: sunny, 31.5C

Camping: Campsite Ponto do Oura

We are southing toward Ponto do Ouro where we shall cross the border back into South Africa. Our first stop was Maputo where we got some money and a few provisions. We crossed over the Maputo river to Catembe, thereby saving a large detour upstream to the bridge crossing. As soon as we hit the other side the tar stopped and we where back on good old dirt and potholes. As the day drew on the piste started to deteriorate. We passed by Maputo Elephant park but didn’t call in as we shall see plenty of elephant when we tour Kruger and Hluhluwe with Heiner and Ingrid. We are entering the rainy season now and the weather is becoming more unpredictable. The piste soon betrayed the cloud bursts that had swamped it the night before. We found ourselves diving into pond after pond, some of which rose high up the DuK. We ploughed on and enjoyed the roller coaster ride, being a little irresponsible at times and racing through some of the ponds at speed to get a big wave and spray. Luckily none hid unseen obstacles or hidden depths. Well you’ve got to have some fun and being so close to SA gives a feeling a help at hand if anything horrible should go wrong. The DuK changed colour like a chameleon as we drove through the water. The soil here seems to be high chalk content and so she became a ghost landy shrouded in her chalky white veil.

We arrived in Ponto to find once again the place over run by South Africans on their Christmas break. Now I don’t mean it in a bad way, everyone is entitled to go places and see things, it’s just for us we shall probably never return to such places and as such we feel we have never really had the chance to see them as normal Mozambique villages. Further, everything trembles in price at this time of year. We found one way around this with the camping by reaching an African agreement on payment, which never saw the light above the table……if you get my drift. Ponto is a nice place, no more then a long white sandy beach really with some good dives and some awesome waves which the kite boarders flew off, high into the air performing somersaults as they went. We sat and watched for a while until the weather blew in and we retired to the roof tent for shelter and sleep.

Tagebuch 

Durch’s Tauchen sind wir immer frueh aufgestanden und unser Koerper hat sich wohl daran gewoehnt – um 5:30 Uhr waren wir schon wieder wach. Allerdings wird es auch sofort heiss im Zelt, sobald die Sonne aufgeht! Wir haben Photos gemacht und sind dann wieder nach Maputo gefahren, wo wir die Faehre nach Catembe genommen haben. Von hier ging es dann nach Ponto do Ouro. Die Strasse wurde zu einem huegeligen Sandweg und durch den Regen den die hier wohl hatten mussten wir durch riesige Pfitzen durchfahren. Wir sind auf drei Kinder gestossen, die aelteste Schwester hat ihren kleinen Bruder im Eimer auf den Kopf getragen – so suess, wie ein Anne Geddes Photo! Ich musste unbedingt ein Photo machen. Alle drei waren alle sehr schuechtern, David hat ihnen dann Pfefferminz gegeben und ich den beiden aelteren ein Top, da die beide keins an hatten. Die aelteste hat sich sehr gefreut und sich hoeflich bedankt, suess!

Kurz vor Ponto do Ouro haben wir die Campingplaetze abgeklappert – einer war teurer als der andere und Buschcamping war nicht wirklich eine Option, da wir uns schon wieder in einem Land voll mit Landminen befinden und sogar ein Stueck abgesperrt war mit dem typischen rot-und weissen Holzpfaehlen….Wir haben ueberall rumgefragt und wollten dann hinten im Auto beim Strand uebernachten, haben Abend gegessen und sind dann doch auf den Campingplatz gefahren.

In der Nacht kam der Sturm! Es hat geregnet ohne Ende, die Blitze waren wie Tageslicht und der Donner hat geknallt dass wir immer wieder davon aufgewacht sind…..

 

Where are we: Coastal Forest, Kosi Bay, South Africa

Date: 4th January 2005

End GPS: S27 15.501 E32 45.263

Total Kilometres: 40984 km

Weather: sunny and humid, 33.5C

Camping: bushcamp in forest with our new friends

Another day and another destination, but not before enjoying a run along the beach, followed by a swim to cool off and then a nice breakfast at the South African run patisserie, see I do praise them as well. The piste to the border is fun with some soft sand sections and rolling green hills. Fabulous scenery and a very enjoyable drive was had by all. The border crossing is straight forward although the SA immigrations officer refused to give us a 2 month extension as we still had 15 days on our old one. He was convinced we were illegal aliens living and working in SA and as such tried to make our life hell, even though we showed him the carnet and all the stamps in our passport, as well as explaining our “MISSION”. In the end Kat called him a “most unhelpful man” and then went on to doubt his parentage.

We took all the back roads to Kosi bay. This is a delightful area set aside as the Grater St Lucia Wetlands reserve. The landscape is an array of swaying Eucalyptus trees, shimmering fresh water lakes, rolling green dunes and ribbed virgin beaches. Sadly Kosi Bay campsite was full and the quota of vehicles going to the mouth had been reached so we could only have a quick look at the campsite. A shame as it really is very pretty here.

We ambled along back roads and explored the side turnings. One led us in search of a lodge which we thought may be worth a visit when Ingrid and Heiner come over. We drove about 10km down a sandy lane and finally came to a barrier.

“We’d like to look at the lodge please”.

“Sorry, no can do, no one is allowed to the lodge but residents”.

“But that is the point, we want to see if we like it and if we do we shall be residents”. “Sorry, only residents are allowed to drive down to the lodge”.

“OK, can I walk down?”

“Yes”………so I did, even though the security guards 200 metres turned out to be about a kilometre……African distances are shorter for some reason. Upon reaching the lodge I enquired for the Manager and explained I would like to look around with a view to bringing guests here in the future…….I was duly informed that outsiders where not shown around the lodge and if we wanted to stay we would have to view it on the internet and book through there accordingly……..I think my words were along the lines of “What pretentious **** you can keep your overpriced, over rated lodge, exclusive for the illusive. We shall take our custom to a place that welcomes “Tourists”………..remember them….their the ones with the money that come and stay at places where they are welcome……… 

It seems that some here still want to keep some areas of this beautiful country for the elite classes of the world………who said apartheid was dead. It has just changed from being colour based to fiscal based.  

We continued down the piste and found some campsites but elected to continue on our voyage. The route took us along the banks of Lake Sibaya where we happened across a magnificently tranquil, deserted beach. We naturally took the opportunity to stop for lunch, have a quick spring clean, and do a little nude sunbathing to brown the bits over places couldn’t reach. We stopped short of swimming in the lake for uncertainty of hippos or crocs. We spied some other whities on a beach to the far south of the lake, after watching through our new super binoculars we felt comfortable they were staying put. Imagine our surprise and haste when 2 bakkies came haring over the dunes onto our tranquil spot. They zipped past us and headed out onto a sand bank where they conducted a ballet of donuts and handbrake turns. Just as we were cussing them they headed back our way and stopped. “Hi, fancy a dumpy” was the first exchange. It turned out our good South African fellows and Aunties where inviting us to a cold beer. Naturally we obliged and began chatting. It turned out they advised us that bush camping was not recommended here as there had been a spate of hi jacking in the area. In true South African manner they exclaimed no problem, and before we knew it we were chasing them down the piste to their secure compound in the forest. I tell you these Oaks and Aunties put my faith back in South Africans. Here we down to earth good hearted and sincere folk. We enjoyed a fabulous night sitting under the stars, enjoying a braai, beer, whisky and lots of banter. Our thanks go out to Roydon, Tracey, Goth (the magic dragon), Michelle, Lucille and Column. Thanks guys for a great night and all your hospitality and friendship.

Tagebuch

Heute morgen sind wir am Strand joggen gegangen und dann ins Meer gehuepft. Wir wollten tauchen aber es war zu teuer. Dann sind wir weiter ueber die Grenze nach Kosi Bay in Sued Afrika gefahren. Kosi Bay gehoert zum St. Lucia Wetlands Gebiet und ist ein Naturschutzgebiet. Ueberall am Strand muss man bezahlen und es ist voll mit Touristen. Wir wollten erkundschaften wo es schoen ist und wir mit meinen Eltern hinfahren koennen, nachdem wir im Krueger Park waren… Als wir einen 4x4 Weg durch den schoenen Kuestenwald gefahren sind, haben wir einen See, Lake Sibaya, gesehen und sind direkt ans Ufer gefahren. Hier wollten wir Buschcampen und haben schon Feuerholz eingesammelt, als eine Gruppe junger Sued Afrikaner auf uns zu kamen und uns gewarnt haben dass hier in letzter Zeit viele Hijackings (Raubueberfaelle) stattgefunden haben. Sie haben uns zu deren Lodge im Wald eingeladen und uns schon Mal ein Bier fuer die Fahrt gegeben. Wir sind bei denen in der Jaegerhuette angekommen, haben viele Biere und Essen bekommen fuer den Austausch unserer Reisegeschichten, bis morgens um 2 Uhr….

 

Where are we: St. Lucia, South Africa

Date: 5th January 2005

End GPS: S28 22.901 E32 25.216

Total Kilometres: 41244 km

Weather: sunny

Camping: Sugarloaf Campsite

We were all a bit fuzzy the next day for our excess of the night before, but after a few coffees we were fighting fit to hit the road and continue on our quest. Down the road lay Sodwana and St Lucia. We cruised the piste and eventually found our way into Sodwana. This is a Mecca for South Africans at this time of year and so the place was bustling with energy and life. We drove straight down onto the beach. Parked the DuK and found a beach café to digest some good fatty food. Deciding that Sodwana was a little busy for us we opted to head further South to St Lucia. We had heard a fair bit of St Lucia and half expected to find it even busier then Sodwana, however on arriving we found it very quiet and operating at a laid back level. It is touristy here but it is our sort of pace. We found a campsite right by the river and a nice walk from the beach. We were able to watch hippos and crocs go about their day in the river and enjoyed a fabulous pizza in town. We shall definitely return here with Kats parents in a few weeks. We did want to go to Cape Vidal a beach and campsite about 10km up the coast, however to go here they want nearly 100 Rand……….just to drive to another beach……..come on.

Tagebuch

Autsch, hangover! Ich konnte meine Haende wieder nicht vom Whisky lassen…Nach kalter Dusche, Fruehstueck und Kaffee haben wir uns von unseren Freunden verabschiedet und sind weiter nach Sodwana gefahren. Hier mussten wir wieder Eintritt bezahlen, konnten aber direkt an den Strand fahren – dieser war megavoll, wie Timmendorfer Strand bei 30 Grad im Sommer! Vier Tauchschulen, Surfschulen, ein Kiosk und tausende von Gelaendefahrzeugen…Wir haben was gegessen und haben uns dann wieder aus dem Staub gemacht. Unterwegs haben wir ein kleines Krokodil am Strassenrand gesehen. Um 17:00 Uhr sind wir in St. Lucia angekommen. Wir haben gedacht dies wird genauso sein, aber erstaunlicherweise war es sehr ruhig und angenehm. Es gab eine nette Pizzeria, einen schoenen Campingplatz und einen Strand und den Fluss. Als erstes haben wir am Strand auf den Parkplatz eine Schlange gesehen, dann auf dem Campingplatz Warzenschweine und Affen. Wir haben uns eine Pizza gegoennt und sind dann zum Campingplatz gefahren.

 

Where are we: Isinkwe Bushcamp, Bushlands, South Africa

Date: 6th - 7thJanuary 2005

 

We have driven 50 km up the road to Isinkwe Lodge and backpackers where we stayed before. This is a charming place and is excellent as it is positioned right on the edge of the Hluhluwe Umfolozi game reserve. The guys here have kindly allowed me the use of their workshop so that I can do a 10,000 km service on the DuK and some other planned maintenance. Thank goodness they drive landies otherwise I think I would have had to be driving some “Jap Crap” to be allowed use of the workshop. Thanks to Ivan and Ernst at Isinkwe for their generosity. Insinkwe is so relaxing I could have stayed for days and days, but time is pressing and Heiner and Ingrid are coming out in 2 days so we must press on toward Jo’berg to meet them. We shall return here with them and to visit the park.

Tagebuch

Nachdem losgefahren sind, haben wir gleich hinter dem Campingplat,z an der Flussmuendung mit dem Meer, Nilpferde mit Babies gesehen. Als wir die Kamera bereit hatten, waren diese leider schon wieder untergetaucht. Wir haben geparkt und sind ueber einen Holzweg zum Strand gelaufen um uns umzugucken. Ueberall waren Warnungen fuer Krokodile und Hippos! Das war ziemlich cool und St.Lucia hat uns ins Gesamt ganz gut gefallen. Wir haben getankt und wollten dann nach Cape Vidal, 35 km noerdlich von St. Lucia, auf einer Sackgasse. Hier wollten die Parkwaechter tierisch viel Geld haben und wir wollten ja nur gucken. Also haben wir uns entschlossen rumzufragen wie schoen es da wirklich ist und werden dann direkt mit meinen Eltern da hinfahren. Wir sind dann zum Strandparkplatz von St.Lucia gefahren und haben    1½ Stunden am Strand verbracht. Dieser ist nicht sooo schoen und das Wasser ziemlich braun vom Fluss, also sind wir nur spazieren gegangen.

Spaeter sind wir wieder noerdlich nach Bushlands zu Isinkwe gefahren, wo David morgen einen Service am Landy machen will waehrend ich unser Tagebuch schreiben werde.

Wir haben schoen gegrillt und dann unter unserer Markiese gesessen, und uns mit Ernst, dem Manager unterhalten.

Patchy, der Staffordshire Terrier, hat uns adoptiert und am naechsten Morgen neben unserem Landy gewartet und den ganzen Tag mit uns verbracht, suess! David ist fleissig am Landy und ich schreibe. Es ist superheiss und somit Zeit endlich in den Pool zu springen…..

 

Where are we: Witbank, South Africa

Date: 8th January 2005

End GPS: S25 53.744 E29 17.500

Total Kilometres: 41781 km

Weather: sunny, 30.3 C

Camping: Witbank Recreational Resort

We are heading to Jo’berg ready to meet Heiner and Ingrid tomorrow. The journey is fast but boring. It’s a little to far to do in one leg so we broke the journey at Witbank dam about 100km short of the Big Bad city. Nothing exciting to report.

Tagebuch

Nachdem wir mit Regen aufgewacht sind und uns erstmal wieder im Zelt verkruemelt haben, sind wir dann endlich aufgestanden und haben hartgekochte Eier auf Knaeckebrot zum Fruehstueck gegessen (eine Delikatesse wenn man sowas sonst nicht isst!) Dann haben wir kurz unser email gecheckt und sind losgefahren. In Piet Relief haben wir zum Mittag und Kaffee angehalten und unseren Reifen reparieren lassen. David war geduldig genug sich mit den Boer (suedafrikanischen engstirnigen Farmern) zu unterhalten, waehrend ich mich in Landy verkrochen und mir auf die Zunge gebissen haben! Dann gings weiter Richtung Johannesburg. Um 17:50 Uhr sind wir in Witbank angekommen wo wir auf einem einst rauschenden und jetzt verfallenen Campingplatz fuer die Nacht angehalten haben – ueberall Stacheldraht und hohe Zaeune, furchtbar!

 

Where are we: Bronkhorstspruit Dam, South Africa

Date: 9th January 2005

 

We left Witbank early at 08:20 but not before accidentally running over a water tap on the campground and creating a new fountain. It looked very nice rising up in the air from the lush green grass. I don’t think the grounds man felt the same about our Fenshwai addition to his arrangement.  

We arrived on the outskirts of Jo’berg at 09:30 but not before being pulled by the cops for running over a solid white line. What lunacy, the guy tried to fine us 500R (about £50), I explained we weren’t from SA and that the road marking was incorrect as the arrow indicated the lane went straight when in fact it turned off the dual carriageway to the left, so I had no choice but to cross it as we wanted to go straight on………the guy was having none of it so then Kat asked for his badge number and station supervising officer so she could call him as the cop was obviously trying to extort money from foreigners……..it made a chink in the bravado but he still insisted we pay….so we just changed the subject and asked for directions to the nearest supermarket was announcing he could keep my fake license as we weren’t paying. For some reason this worked and he advised us to……get this…..reverse half a kilometre back down the dual carriageway and up on the on ramp for the previous exit………..now that’s not dangerous as crossing a solid white line…….IS IT?

We arrived at the airport after a quick shop for supplies. Heiner and Ingrid finally came out of arrivals at 14:00. It had taken them nearly 1 ½ hours to clear immigration and customs….Ridiculous. They were tired but happy to be re-united as a family. Their driver took us to the rental company where they picked up their 4X4 with roof tent. Then we were on the road out of town enroute to Kruger park. To far to drive today so we stopped at Bronkhorstspruit dam. We found a nice campsite now deserted after the Christmas period and set up camp. It was a lovely evening and we set the braai going and toasted Heiner and Ingrids arrival and our re-union. Just as we finished toasting, the wind picked up and we saw the storm approaching in the distance. It’s rain season and we are at 1600 metres on the plateau and so storms are frequent this time of year. No worries the South Africans assured us they came and within an hour they were gone and out came the sun and it was a beautiful day again…………haaaa no this storm. No it circled us and then hit with full force. We abandoned sitting under the awning and sort shelter from the wind in the back awning. After 10 minutes this too was exposed to the ferocious wind and then the sheet rain that lashed down. We had no choice but to seek shelter in Heiner and Ingrids double cab. Great our first night and a major storm. By the time the storm abated enough for us to leave the confines of the 4X4 the ground was awash and the roof tents soaking wet. We felt so sorry for Heiner and Ingrid, after such a long trip and then having to sleep on a wet mattress. Not a good start to the trip.

Tagebuch

Heute kommen Mami und Papi! Ich bin schon ganz aufgeregt und David fast noch mehr und wollte schon gleich um 7:00 Uhr losfahren… Nachdem wir dann losgekommen sind, kamen wir auch schon eine Stunde spaeter in Johannesburg an und wurden sofort von der Polizei, kurz vorm Flughafen, angehalten. Wir sind ueber eine weisse Linie durchgefahren! Das ist ein Vergehen und kostet R500 (EUR75!!).

Wir haben unsere normale Leier runtergeleiert, aber hier sind wir ja in Sued Afrika und den Beamten hat das ueberhaupt nicht interessiert! Immer laenger haben wir mit ihm diskutiert bis ich sagte, ueberall sind die Beamten so nett zu uns bitte sei doch auch nett…du kannst doch auch laecheln guck….und mach es uns doch bitte nicht so schwer…wir sind Auslaender und haben ein anderes Filtrierungssystem in Europa….Dann hat er ploetzlich seine Miene geaendert, gelaechelt und gesagt OK, Madam, hier ist Dein Fuehrerschein, aber macht sowas nicht nochmal! Wir haben ihn gefragt wo denn der naechste Supermarkt ist und er antwortet “Ihr koennt ja kurz rueckwaerts auf dem Seitenstreifen zurueck zur Ausfahrt fahren, da ist der Supermarkt…” Wir wussten nicht ob wir lachen oder weinen sollten – ueber eine weisse Linie zu fahren ist fast Hoechststrafe, aber rueckwaerts auf der Autobahn ist erlaubt oder wie???! Unglaublich!!

Um 9:45 Uhr waren wir dann schon am Flughafen, haben gefruehstueckt und sind dann zum Supermarkt zum Einkaufen gefahren. Leider war heute Sonntag und somit konnten wir kein Whisky fuer Papi kaufen…Um 11:50 Uhr waren wir wieder am Flughafen und um 14:00 Uhr sind sie nach langer Wartezeit endlich durch die Schiebetuer gekommen! Ich dachte schon die kommen gar nicht mehr, so lange haben wir gewartet und uns die ganzen anderen Wiederbegegnungen angeschaut…

Das war vielleicht schoen Mami und Papi endlich wieder zu sehen und in die Arme zu nehmen, obwohl die leider so muede und genervt vom Warten waren, dass wir uns gar nicht so richtig schoen begruesst haben, aber das wurde nachgeholt!

Der Fahrer hat die beiden dahin gefahren wo sie das Mietauto abholen und wir sind hinterhergefahren.

Um 15:48 Uhr ging es dann endlich los. Wir haben aufgetankt und sind oestlich Richtung Krueger Park gefahren, und haben um 17:30 Uhr in Bronkhorstspruit am Damm zum Campen angehalten. Mami und Papi haben sich gegen ein Wohnmobil entschlossen sondern wollten auch mal erfahren wie wir mit unserem Dachzelt so hausen. Das haben sie leider auch schnell rausgefunden, denn nachdem wir schoen gegrillt und angestossen haben, kam der Sturm….

Unglaublich! Die erste Nacht im Zelt und alles flog ueberall hin und wir konnten noch nicht einmal in unserem Hinterzelt sitzen sondern haben uns alle in deren Wagen vorne ins Fahrerhaus gesetzt und dort unseren Wein ausgetrunken! Die armen mussten gleich am ersten Abend, nach einer langen Reise im nassen Zelt schlafen…..

 

Where are we: Sabie, South Africa

Date: 10th January 2005

End GPS: S25 05.892 E30 46.631

Total Kilometres: 42386 km

Weather: rain, clearing, sunny

Camping: Jock of the Bushveld

The wind kept pounding the roof tents all night and by 06:45 everyone had had enough of trying to sleep and chose to rise early. The wind finally relented and the sun came out allowing us to dry the mattresses a little. We hit the road again passing ominous signs stating “High crime rate here – Hi jacking hot spot – Do Not Stop!!!!! … Welcome to South Africa Ehh!  As we finally turned off the motorway heading north toward Sabie the skies again grew dark and threatening. We reached the little town of Sabie and stopped for coffee and a look around. As we did so the skies opened and down came the rain…….what is going on with the weather? We elected to find a room for the night as everyone is tired and wants a good night sleep. After looking around town we eventually found “Jock of the Bushveld” where we rented a sweet wooden alpine chalet. It was lovely as it gave us shelter and a base to cook and dine. Typical however, as soon as we got settled out came the sun and a beautiful clear evening ensued. Ah well, we enjoyed a nice dinner of Spag Bol cooked by Kat and we washed it down with a few glasses of wine. The girls lasted the longest, drinking and chatting into the early hours of the morning. It’s so nice for Kat to be able to catch up with her parents after so long away from home. They have a special relationship and I can see how happy they all are to be together again.  

We have decided to first visit Tschukudu game reserve. This is a small reserve to the North West of the Paul Kruger Gate of Kruger park and is famed for the work it does in rehabilitating orphaned animals as well as it’s lion breeding programme. The reserve, we would find out, has some very special hosts and would give us some exceptional experiences and meetings.

Tagebuch

Gut geschlafen hat glaub ich keiner. Die Zelte waren nass und flappten alle im Sturm und mir taten Mami und Papi so leid! Deren Zelt ist echt scheisse und ueberhaupt nicht impraegniert! Die Dachzelte sind sowieso nicht gerade fuer alle Wetterlagen gemacht aber deren Zelt war echt nicht im guten Zustand!

David hat fuer alle Kaffee gekocht, die Sonne kam raus und wir haben gefruehstueckt.

Um 9:30 Uhr sind wir losgefahren, haben in Witbank angehalten um ein bisschen im Supermarkt einzukaufen, dann ging es weiter nach Graskop. Auf der Autobahn waren ueberall Schilder, auf denen geschrieben stand: “Crime Rate here – do not stop!” und “Hi-Jack spot, do not stop!”. Das war schon etwas unheimlich und nicht wirklich unser Ding! Wir sind so weit gekommen und selbst Kinshasa war mir angenehmer als Johannesburg, bis jetzt…

Dann wurde die Gegend ploetzlich laendlicher und etwas huegeliger. Wir sind von der Hauptstrasse abgekommen und wollten nach Sabie. An einem Farmshop haben wir angehalten und mit einem Hundewelpen gespielt und Mami hat fuer uns alle hausgemachte Tomatenmarmelade und leckere Kashewnuesse gekauft, obwohl sie alles fuer uns kaufen wollte….!

Sabie ist eine ganz suesse Kleinstadt und wir haben Kaffee hier getrunken; David war im Internet um Tshukudu Game Lodge zu buchen, um meinen Eltern eine Einfuehrung zur Safari zu geben. Da es schon wieder an zu regnen fing haben wir uns entschlossen ein Bungalow/Cottage zu nehmen.

Nachdem wir ein paar Pensionen abgeklappert haben sind wir bei Jockof the Bushveld in einer Holzkabine (wie ein Blockhouse) gelandet und ich hab spaeter Spaghetti Bolognaise gekocht waehrend wir richtig schoen gekloent haben und den Abend mit Wein und Whisky genossen haben. Mami hat der Amarula, Sued Afrikanisches Getraenk, dass aus Fruechten von dem Marula Baum, die die Elephanten lieben, gwonnen wird und wie Baileys schmeckt, auch gut geschmeckt und somit hatten wir einen sehr schoenen ersehnten langen Abend! David ist irgendwann ins Bett gegangen und ich habe Mami und Papi Photos von unserem Trip gezeigt.

 

Where are we: Tshukudu Game Reserve, South Africa

Date: 11th January 2005

End GPS: S24 16.551 E30 57.257

Total Kilometres: 42529 km

Weather: sunny and hot

Camping: lovely room at Tshukudu lodge

It’s that great day in the Horner calendar, my birthday. This year I reach the staggering dizzy heights of 37 years.  No earth shattering enlightenment, or divine inspiration, nor black Labrador mid life depressions, yet. No life continues in the relatively carefree attitude it has done for the last 15 months, since we set ourselves free of the shackles of modern life.

I woke to a fine sunny morning and a beautiful birthday breakfast courtesy of Kat, Ingrid and Heiner. Thanks to all for the birthday wishes, greetings, SMS and presents, it made for a fine day.

We headed up country toward Tshukudu reserve, stopping enroute to chat to the very nice policeman who stopped me for speeding, (now that is 3 times the Duk has been pulled). This time it was 72 kph in a 60. After showing my license and the date of birth he duly bid me a good day and safe journey, no need for the buttering up, this was my birthday present from him.  We arrived at the reserve just in time for lunch. We were greeted by Wendel the chief ranger at the reserve who informed us he would be our charge for the duration of our stay.

After a fine lunch and cold beer we sort refuge from the heat of the day by the pool, having first paid a visit to the King Cheetah holding pen. Alas we could only just glimpse her rear end from afar as she sheltered from the heat of the day. She is semi wild and was brought into the reserve as part of a breeding programme to try to re-introduce the King Cheetah into the wild.  The King Cheetah is actually an aberrant colour form, caused by a recessive gene, this gives the King Cheetah a distinctive black mane and black stripes in dominance over the normal black spots of the Cheetah. Research has found that if you mate a King Cheetah with another King Cheetah the likelihood of having a cub with the recessive gene is 80%, i.e. you have 80% chance that the cub will be a King Cheetah. If you mate the King Cheetah with a Cheetah without the recessive gene then there is still a 20% chance of the cubs having the recessive gene. One difference between the Cheetah and other large cats is that the female chooses the male. This is fine, however, it seems that the King Cheetah at Tshukudu has very fussy taste and to date all efforts to find her a mate have failed as they haven’t come up to her standard. Wendel explained that she has probably about another year and a half left in which time she will be able to conceive, as such the race is on, to such an extent that they are working with a team of European scientists who have developed and IVF system for Cheetahs. Whilst this is man interfering with nature, I do hope they succeed so that the breeding programme can see the re-introduction of both Cheetah and King Cheetah into countries where they have sadly disappeared or where their numbers are threatened.

Later in the afternoon we climbed aboard the open topped safari 4X4 and headed off around the park. It was a great game drive and we had some good close observations of Giraffe, Warthog, White Rhino, Impala, Lion and Leopard. The latter two are not free roaming, although they do have 2 lion free roaming on the reserve.

The leopard was originally brought to the reserve for a breeding programme to re-introduce leopard to the wild. However when he arrived they found out he was a baby cub rather then the adolescent they thought they were getting for breeding. This meant he had to be hand reared and as such he will never be released into the wild. The cubs they do have however are left to be raised without minimal human interference and are then sold to other reserves where they roam free.

The lion are a full on breeding programme and the reserve has about 12 prides of breeding lion. Each pride has a good area that is their territory and these guys and gals are certainly wild. The breeding programme is a great success and the young lion are now re-stocking many parks and reserves throughout Africa. It was an awesome experience to venture into the lion breeding colonies, as it was getting late in the day, the lion were becoming active. One pride of lioness approached us and circled the vehicle, at which time a lion from a neighbouring pride called out a territorial series of grunts. Our ladies before us obliged her calls with their own retorts that resonated all around, demonstrating the power and supremacy of this master hunter. It’s a humbling experience to be sitting just 10 feet from a lion when they make these bellowing calls that come from deep within. We have heard the call in the night when in camp, even then it’s a stirring and beautiful sound. But to sit and watch her facial expressions go in synch with her call and to watch her behaviour as she called out was a privilege to behold. The hairs on the back of my neck stood on end not from fear but from the raw power of her voice and a wave of adrenalin poured through my veins. I was on the edge of my seat and absolutely mesmerised by the majesty of the moment, a magical, never to be forgotten experience.

Tshukudu has a good feel to it and I was very impressed by Wendel as he genuinely cared about ensuring minimal impact on the wild animals and barging in on their world and the work is not just about tourism, but more about conservation and breeding.

We returned to camp buzzing and quickly showered and changed before dinner which was set under the stars in a Boma. Soft oil lanterns lit the scene and a fire burned gracefully in the centre of the sheltered arena. Dinner was cooked by the delightful “Beauty” a robust, giggling, well proportioned chef, who rustled up a feast fit for my birthday: Buffalo stew, roast beef, butternut, salads, cheeses, strawberry mouse and good wine. Excellent!!!

We enjoyed good conversation with our fellow guests a couple from Tokyo, another from Holland and a very sweet couple from Brazil. All in all a very enjoyable birthday.

Tagebuch

Heute war David’s Geburtstag! Wir haben ein wenig ausgeschlafen und dann hab ich Fruehstueck gemacht. Papi hat den ganzen Morgen Kaffee gekocht und Mami hat einen schoenen Geburtstagstisch, mit Geschenken von meinen Eltern und Chrischi und meinen Pudding, den ich gestern abend noch gekocht habe, gemacht, und den Fruehstueckstisch gedeckt. Ein schoener Morgen!

Dann sind wir um 10:25 Uhr weitergefahren und haben noch kurz an den Sabie Wasserfaellen angehalten. Auf dem Weg wurden wir schon wieder von der Polizei angehalten, da wir anstatt 60 kmh 72 kmh gefahren sind! David hat mit dem Hauptmann gekloent und Papi hat sich die Radarpistole ganz genau angeguckt und erklaeren lassen und somit konnten wir auch ohne Strafe weiter.

Wir sind nur 10 Minuten zu spaet bei Tshukudu Game Reserve angekommen und haben sofort Mittagessen bekommen und wurden von Wendel, unserem Ranger, aufgeklaert und herumgefuerhrt. Wir konnten uns zwei Stunden ausruhen und am Pool relaxen, bevor wir um 17:00 Uhr auf Safari ging.

Das Auto war ein offener Toyota mit erhoehten Sitzen, und wir haben auch sofort Giraffen, Impala und Weisse Rhinos gesehen. Dann sind wir in das Loewengehege gefahren, wo Loewen erfolgreich gezuechtet werden und die Gehege nicht wie im Zoo sind! Die Damen waren alle aufgeregt und haben lauthals miteinander kommuniziert – ein wunderschoenes gewaltiges Geraeusch, da kriegt man Gaensehaut!

Als wir wieder in der Lodge ankamen gab es ein Buffet-Essen im Boma (ein kleines, offenes und eingezeuntes Stueck Land oder Garden, dass vor Tieren schuetzt und wo gekocht wird), Bueffel und Rind mit Gemuese und leckerem Salat…Spaeter sind wir in unsere Chalets gegangen und haben bei einem Absacker den Abend ausklingen lassen.

 

Where are we: Kruger Park, South Africa

Date: 12th January 2005

End GPS: S23 51.235 E31 34.703

Total Kilometres: 42662 km

Weather: sunny 38C!

Camping: Letaba Camp, Kruger Park

Today would be a very cool day in which we would interact with animals I thought I would never have the chance to touch yet along frolic with.

An audience with the king

First stop our illusive King Cheetah. But hey why look from outside the enclosure when you can have a closer look from inside. I was a little glad that Wendel had been at the reserve for 10 years and so was perfectly in control of the venture. This is where the animals seem to give back the respect which he gives to them. We quietly stalked through the enclosure seeking her out, we were literally atop of her before Wendel declared “Stop, quietly come round here, there she is”. A sleek elegant graceful lady she was. She eyed us curiously, sniffed the air and then obviously declared to herself “More bloody tourists” for she rose to her feet walked a few paces for the paparazzi to capture her smooth, athletic lines and then she slunk again to the floor pointing her ass straight at us.  Ah such is the life of the famous and beautiful. We stayed for 10 minutes observing her and learning all about the breeding programme and its hidden complexities.

A walk on the wild side

After our audience with a King, it was off for a game walk with a little difference. Not too many animals about but plenty of spoor and droppings to study and learn about, then the reason for the absence of any animals. Out of the veld stomped a young male lion, then curiously a Labrador who seemed intent on trying to jump the lion, what on earth……then we saw the other ranger. This was Impi, the reserves 8 month old lion. As a young cub he had developed a vitamin deficiency and had had to be removed from the pride to undergo continuous vitamin treatment. The constant human contact had meant that he became more use to humans then lions, as such he will spend his formative years walking with humans and dogs until he becomes too big and boisterous at which time he will go and form his own pride of woman folk in the lion breeding centre. It was so cool to walk through the veld with a lion swiping at you feet and wrestling with the dog. We stopped so he could pose for photographs, which in the process of I nearly lost our camera case to the jaws of Impi. A quick wrestle and I had won, however, I don’t think that will be the case in a few more months.

Searching for Savanna

We returned to the lodge and ate a hearty breakfast and then it was time to head off into the veld for another game drive. We were going in search of the illusive Savanna. She is an orphaned Cheetah that has lived at the lodge for over 4 years. Like Impi she was accustomed to people, indeed she liked nothing better on a hot sunny day to laze around the pool and be stroked or fed the odd ice cream or two!!!!. Savanna is however a bit of an  oddity in the animal kingdom as she now lives in both worlds, choosing that which comforts her the most. When she is tired or a little stressed by life on the wild side she seeks sanctuary in the security of the lodge and the affection of Wendel and the other rangers and staff. However, when domestic life becomes to constrained she ventures back into her world and disappears into the bush where she hunts and becomes self sufficient like any other wild cheetah, a truly unique creature. She had been in the veld for some days now and had been seen occasionally by the rangers on some drives, but there was speculation that she may be pregnant, having been the test case for the scientists IVF treatment.  We drove the park which it seemed all the animals had gone on holiday from. Just as were becoming despondent that we would see nobody, out of the bush she popped. Slunking her way toward us. Wendel jumped out and greeted her like the old friend she is. We were then invited to also jump out and meet Savanna the beautiful. What an honour to be able to stand next to such a fine animal in her habitat, rather just watch from the security of a vehicle. She was truly adorable and for me it was instant love. She is so graceful and has the most wonderful amber eyes that are always surveying the land around about. When you scrubbed her neck she purred like a big baby, just like a couple of boysies at home do. She was thirsty so Wendel handed us some bottles of water which we poured slowly into our hands from which she then drank. Amazing. We spent about 20 minutes with her before we reluctantly climbed back into the open top 4X4. I jokingly said to Wendel perhaps she would like a lift back to the lodge as she looked so tired of tramping through the bush. No sooner had I finished then there was a clatter and commotion from behind me and as I looked around there sat Savanna between Ingrid and Heiner. What on earth? Wendel explained that she sometime used the vehicles like a chauffeur service to shuttle her back to the lodge when she was fed up of the bush. So off we set with 8 guests, one ranger and a cheetah on safari. I don’t think there are many cheetah in the world that get personally chauffeured around their reserves to view good hunting opportunities.  

Trunk Call

We had gone about 10 minutes down the road when rounding a corner we came upon a herd of 3 adult and one juvenile elephant. We stopped to watch them at which point one of them caught wind of us and started over toward us at a pace. Savanna was quickly out of the vehicle and went scampering into the bush, lying low about 20 metres off. Cats and elephants don’t exactly get on. I had though this would halt the elephants approach but no she kept on coming. At this point I want to ask Wendel to kindly start the engine and beat a hasty retreat, but instead her turned to his bagged and pulled out 8 oranges which he dispatched to each of us. Great now we were scented targets. Then he climbed from the vehicle and as elephant and man met they amazingly greeted each other as friends do. We then noticed the little out of control and very manic baby elephant close in tow.  This it turned out was again one of the orphaned elephants which the reserve had taken in. She had in the past also accompanied guests on the bush walk, can you imagine, 1 elephant, 1 lion, 1 Labrador and 8 nervy guests. That was then for now she had found love with a bull and another elephant and as such she had effectively returned to the wild where she had become a proud mother. She did however forget her wildness and allowed herself and her baby to be the centre of our camera lenses, in returned for which we had to make payment of one orange. Take the photos however and not make payment resulted in a very long, hair and slobbery trunk reaching right into the vehicles and then frisking you until the payment was located, extracted and consumed.  

Savanna hunting safari

We sat in awe, no sooner had payment been made then off she trooped with baby in tow and back to her men where she once again assumed the role of big bad mean wild elephant. Savanna and the bull where having a cat and mouse game and when we started our engine, Savanna made the best get away a cheetah can from a mad bull, she jumped back in the 4X4 and was whisked off to safety. Ah how the modern world has corrupted these animals. Our game drive was over and we headed back toward the lodge, but one more treat and adventure awaited us down the track. As we came though some thicker bush someone in the back got very excited and then we all saw why. A herd of antelope stood right in the road in front of us. Now Impala are not stupid animals and at the sight of a cheetah will scatter in as many different directions as there are points on the compass. Now normally Cheetah are seen sneaking through the bush or coming full pelt out of the savannah, they don’t normally sit surveying their lunch from the comfort of a game vehicle. Thus our Impala friends were a little complacent to the arrival of a game vehicle, “bloody tourists” we heard them tutt. “They can wait for us to cross, we ain’t running for nobody”……or so they thought. You should have seen the mayhem and chaos as one very fast and hungry cheetah launched herself headlong from the vehicle and gave chase. I sure I heard an Impala screech “What the………that’s not game”. Even with her distinct advantage the result of the chase was Impala  none Savanna knackered.  She was caught between the two worlds unsure whether to give up and return to the lodge courtesy of Wendel or stay in hope of a second try. She opted for the latter and so we bid her a warm farewell.

Kindergarten

Wendel had one last surprise up his sleeve, as we drove into the camp we made a sharp right and stopped oytside a house. “Come on” he proclaimed. “Just go in there I’ll be there in a moment”. As we opened the gate and entered the garden we were hounded by a dog. No worries Wendel called him to heel and he duly oblidged. Then we were under attack again, this time from the cutest ankle nipper in town. Meet Zimba the 3 month old lion cub. How cute do they come. This little raskle was a bundle of fun and we ended up rolling and sparring on the grass. Wendel came in and introduced us all formally to Zimba who was more interested in launching herslef at us and trying to nibble our ears off. Then Wendel introduced us to another little bundle of fluff, a beautiful Serval cat who was more intersted in escaping the confines of the garden, but who did enjoy a good cuddle and stroke from Heiner.

Our time at Tshukudu was at an end but what an absolutely amazing time we had had. It was great to take Heiner and Ingrid to such a place for their first introduction to safari, we had some exceptional encounters and experiences which we all shall never forget. This afternoon we shall head to Kruger for our self drive safari. It has a lot to live up too. No worries however as we spied Giraffe and Elephant on the way to Letaba camp. Indeed as we set up camp a very large bull with huge tusks ambled along the fence just 10 metres from us. Later that night as I checked what was on the other side of the fence I caught a hyena right by the fencei it next to some other campers braai. Had it not been for the fence their food would have been a goner.

Tagebuch

Heute war ein besonders schoener Tag! Wir sind um 5:30 Uhr aufgestanden und sind mit Wendel in ein Gepardengehege gegangen, wo sie versuchen den King-Cheetah zu zuechten. Wir haben alles ueber diese huebschen Kreaturen gelernt waehrend wir nur ca. 5 m weiter weg standen. Dann sind wir weiter durch den Busch spaziert und wurden ueber einige Spuren aufgeklaert und haben dann Impi, den 8-Monate alten Loewen kennengelernt. Impi geht mit den Touristen und seinen Freund, einem Hund, durch den Busch spazieren! Das war unglaublich, obwohl er noch jung ist kann man schon sehen was fuer eine starke unabhaengige Katze er ist!

Danach ging es zum Fruehstuecken zurueck zur Lodge und dann wieder im Auto auf Safari. Diesmal waren wir nur zu siebt – wir vier, das Brasilianische Paar, mit denen wir gestern noch ein wenig gkloent haben und Wendel unser Ranger. Wir konnten alle gut sehen aber leider haben sich alle Tiere versteckt. Die Fahrt war trotzdem schoen und dann ploetzlich kam Savanna, der Gepard aus dem Gebuesch. Savanna ist auf der Lodge grossgeworden und halb wild und halb zahm. Sie ist an Menschen gewoehnt und sonnt sich auch gerne mal am Swimmingpool neben den Gaesten. Zu 60% jagt sie selber und verkruemelt sich in den Busch, ansonsten freut sie sich wenn die Angestellten sie mit Eiscreme fuettern….

Es war unglaublich, die ist so schoen und grazil und elegant! Wir konnten Wasser in unsere Haende fuellen und sie hat daraus getrunken und tierisch laut geschnurrt, wie Katzen nur lauter! Als wir sie alle gestreichelt haben und weiter wollten, ist sie ploetzlich bei Papi hinten auf den Sitz, fast auf seinen Schoss, gesprungen! Wahnsinn! Sie wollte Platz haben, also musste Papi sich mit mir und Mami die Bank teilen und so sind wir dann mit einem Geparden im Auto weiter auf Safari gefahren…..Wir kamen zu den Elephanten und einer dieser war auch ein Weisenkind und wurde von uns allen von Orangen gefuettert. Sie ist mittlerweile Mami und sobald sie die Orangen verschlungen hat verzieht sie sich wieder in die Wilderness mit ihrem suessen kleinen Baby….Savanna wurde von den Elephanten weggescheucht ist dann aber ploetzlich wieder auf die Bank direkt neben mir gesprungen! Dann kamen wir an einer Herde Impalas vorbei und Savanna wurde immer angespannter und ist ploetzlich fast ueber David’s Kopf hinweggesprungen und hat gejagt….Sie hat keinen Impala gefasst, da diese zu verstreut waren; nun wollte sie aber nicht mehr mit zur Lodge da sie zu aufgeregt war…

Das war vielleicht ein tolles Erlebnis! Wir waren alle noch ganz aufgeregt als Wendel mit uns zu seinem Haus gefahren ist um ein 3-Monatiges Loewenbaby und Servalbaby kennenzulernen! Oh waren die suess!!!! Unglaublich wie grosse Pranken der Loewe jetzt schon hatte und wie verspielt wie ein Welpe er war und mir meine Klamotten vom Leib reissen wollte….  Bei der Lodge haben wir noch etwas getrunken und die Photos fuer die Brasilianer, deren Kamerabatterie leer war, auf CD gezogen, wofuer ich dann einen Talismann (eine Brasilianische Kette mit Gluecksbringern, suess!) bekommen habe. Dann haben wir uns verabschiedet und sind dann Richtung Krueger Park gefahren.

Wir haben in Letaba Camp angehalten, gegrillt und wurden von einem riesigen Elephantenbullen, auf der anderen Seite des Zauns, beobachtet. David hat auch noch eine Hyaene gesehen; wir waren alle muede und sind frueh ins Bett gegangen und der Sturm kam auch schon wieder….

 

Where are we: Kruger Park, South Africa

Date: 13th January 2005

End GPS: S24 23.659 E31 46.545

Total Kilometres: 42814 km

Weather: sunny, raining later

Camping: Satara Camp, Kruger

We had a lazy morning over a long breakfast and lots of coffee. We hit the road at 12:00 not a great time for setting out on a game drive due to the heat of the sun which sends most animals running for cover and shelter and as such out of sight of us. We didn’t need to worry however, 5 minutes up the road we pulled of the main track onto an area where we could survey the river bed beneath us. There we saw a herd of Waterbuck, they seemed agitated and so we looked around to see why they we so nervous. We saw 3 large crocs in the water next to where they were drinking and assumed it was these guys. Then out of the bush on the other bank strolled a lone lioness. She swaggered to the water, winked at the waterbuck and then had a drink before magically disappearing back into the bush. No wonder the buck were wary.

The rest of the day brought us sightings of Hippo fighting in the water, eagles, Marabou storks, Giraffe, grazing Hippo, Wildebeest, Zebra and even Terrapin. After Olifonts camp we saw 3 magnificent Kudu bulls, a beautiful antelope, and the very flamboyant secretary bird. We ended our day at Satera camp where we enjoyed a rainless night under the stars, ate a fine array of tapas cooked up by everyone and listened to the calls of distant lion. Excellent!

Tagebuch

Alles war schon wieder nass! Mami und Papi mussten ihre Matratze trocknen und sind erst um 12:00 Uhr weitergefahren. Schon nach 20 Minuten haben wir auf der anderen Seite des Flusses Wasserboecke, Krokodile und Hippos gesehen und dann kam ploetzlich eine Loewin zum Trinken und ist genauso schnell wieder verschwunden.

Weiter ging’s auf Safari durch etwas dichteren Busch aber immer am Fluss entland und wir sahenAdler, Marabou Stoerche, Sekretaervogel, Wasserschildkroeten, Gnus, Zebra, Giraffen und dann drei wunderschoene Kudubullen. Um 18:15 Uhr sind wir im Satara Camp angekommen und es wurde schon wieder windig und wolkig….Wir haben Tapas gekocht, jeder hat etwas gemacht und wir waren etwas muede und genervt von dem Wetter. Spaeter haben wir dann wieder Loewengebruell gehoert, das war toll! Ich hab noch einen Pudding fuer Mami’s Geburtstag morgen gemacht und dann sind wir ins Zelt gekrochen.

 

Where are we: Blyde River Canyon, South Africa

Date: 14th January 2005

End GPS: S24 30.116 E30 50.181

Total Kilometres: 43029 km

Weather: hot and humid

Camping: Moholoholo lodge

Today is Ingrids birthday and Heiner has treated us to breakfast at the camp. We enjoyed a relaxed affair and Kat brought out the lemon cake she had made as a birthday cake for Ingrid. Lots of happiness and photos and then off on safari again. We are heading out of Kruger today to celebrate Ingrids birthday at Blyde River canyon. The drive to Orpen gate was a little disappointing in the amount of game we saw, although that said we did see a boisterous bull elephant, a family herd, plenty of Impala, Wildebeest, Reedbuck, Steenbuck, Kudu, Giraffe, Zebra and Warthog. The big cats are elusive as many are bearing young and as such are hiding the cubs from the males, who would otherwise kill them. Shame but still magical to be in Kruger.